Collection: Part two

Research

Tags: Foundation Plus 2017

Tim Walker//SELF-PORTRAIT

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Andy Warhol//SELF-PORTRAIT

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Cindy Sherman//SELF-PORTRAIT

I like the composition around the main character. There are a lot of different props with their own symbolism. I like the connection between curtains and the head piece, as well as its weird colour palette, and prints on the curtains. Also, I have noticed very unusual look of the Sherman, she is looking at something with no emotions, sometimes I think that she is not event a human and that there just a big doll. I think that I will use some kind of similar way of the interior organisation, with props and particular props. I like the idea of a little bit theatrical atmosphere.

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Dawid Hockney, "In despair" 1966

I like the minimalistic movement of this one line. It creates a strong forms of bodies and textures of bed clothes. The view of two people gives a context, which let me understand and feel this desperation. I used the same principle of one line drawings, when doing today's tasks. I think that in this way of conveying your illustration, it looks clear but you really have to be concentrate on where lines are going to be thicker to shoe shades, as well as be exact in particular elements.
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Rebeca Horn

Some years ago, Rebecca Horn's works have changed my opinion about drawings, in a way that her works show that a process of drawing may be more important than the actual final result. I started to look at drawing, as a performance experience, rather than the hatching time. I am very excited by her ideas of using different structures and extension to draw. I think that except for the actual performance, it is also brilliant opportunity to get an-expectable result because it is impossible to control the movement of pencils, properly. Her artworks inspired me to be more open and free, while drawings and especially, sketching.

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Regent's Canal

I have started my research from looking around the King's cross area, I wanted to find something else except for beautiful old and modern buildings and I decided to go all way down along the Regent's canal: from granary square to Camden. This place has surprised me by its atmosphere created with the help of a lot of vintage ships with enormous amount of different bags, bicycles and other things on top of their roofs. I got inspired by these ships, by their colour pallets and tents that are randomly draped, which I will try to apply to my designs and add volume as it was there. Also I have noted forms of ships, which engaged me with the contrast between rectangles and triangles, between geometric shapes inside of the sensitive forms and smooth lines.

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Algae//Primary Research

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Algae chokes Regent's Canal

 

Inspired by the algae, I decided to continue my research and I found information that in 2011,the green algae chokes the regents canal. I found some amazing pictures of how birds trying to move on the surface of the water that look like green pudding. In this image, I have noticed interesting twirl lines behind the birds. These lines are very sensitive, they created by the contrast between dark green water and light green algae. Also I really like texture, it seems to be very soft and tender, it is similar to the foam. It makes the water look like the opaque, solid surface. I use these lines in my designs, however the biggest influence of this picture to my project is in colour palette. Because I am excited by thus warm, vibrant light green colour with shades of dirty yellow and dark blue.

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Lorenzo Nanni//Silk Botany- seaweed

 

 

This artwork illustrates seaweed made of silk and embroidery. I like its sense rice lines, I can see how shapes and forms are moving, as if seaweed could dance. I like the lightness of lines caused by materials and movement in the artwork. I have noticed the composition that has quite messy centre and very organic surroundings that are twisted around. In addition, I like the idea of using pearls inside of the lines, it adds more aesthetic look by interesting shades inside the seaweed parts. The artwork made in warm white colour, somewhere in the mixture with ochre, yellow and brown colours. From this work I got inspiration for my project, in terms of the lightness of textiles, that caused by material choice.

Another piece by Lorenzo Nanni that also presents seaweed and made of the same materials. However, this work has absolutely opposite colour pallete. They are translucent, more dynamic and organic at the same time. It's a beautiful mixture of red, ochre, orange dark brown and yellow colours. It is very similar to the volcanic soil. The artworks illustrates very natural, transparent strips of seaweed with embroidery, they all are coming out of one point, so it makes them look messy and chaotically. On the top we can see another forms of this plan. They are opaque and solid, have darker colours and more geometric forms but these lines are still very organic and tender. Again, I got inspired by its lightness that I will try to communicate and chaotic composition of textiles. 

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Marina Sawa//Algaerium

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Hanne Friis // Burden, 2014-16 // and // The Juice from the trees, 2015-16

//burden// This artwork shows us a texture made of hand dyed wool. So, the texture is probably the most important elements of this work. It seems to be a bit sharply and roughly because it looks as a stone or a part of a mountain. Artist used white, cream, light brown and ochre colours. I like small pieces of silk in this artworks, they add more realistic look. Also I like the forms of this work that look very natural, as real waves, they are very curvy and a bit twisted, the artwork has a lot of wrinkles and fold, which add more volume to the artwork.

//the juice from the tree// Another work by this artist made of silk velvet.
I love draping, wrinkles and folds that create an enormous volume of this artwork. I chose this sculpture because each small fold reminds me how seaweed or other parasite plant are growing in the surface of something else. I like the calmness of colour change: from warm dark brown to the light cold creamy colour. I think that very small wrinkles create interesting texture and make me to think how differently this work looks like in close up and from the distance. And of course, I couldn't miss the silk velvet, I am just in love with its texture and how it works when draping. I think that I have added much more draping elements to my work inspired by this installation.
I chose this sculpture because it reminds me a dry seaweed or draped fabrics. It inspired me to work with draping more and using opposite materials in a way that shows their harmony rather than contrast.
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Algae//Secondary Research

I found a page of drawing in a very old encyclopedia. I have noted the calm green colour that truly conveys the underwater lighting. I want to highlight that on the page we can see only green colours but how different they are. I like the quality and technique of drawings, which are created in a very academic way. Also it helps me to understand the structure of the real algae and seaweed.

In addition I have researched the real algae types to understand, which one will suite my project more. They all are quite similar, I like their wavy shapes, which remind me of an Italian pasta. Also they have a bit different texture in a dry way, it's uneven and seems to be very fragile, while in the wet condition they are just similar to hair.

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Ronnan Bouroullec Algue

This artwork shows algae in the most accurate and tiny way. It is the first work that escaping from the messy representation of this plan thus it is less realistic but still work well because it conveys the little shapes and silhouettes of algae. Also this work has a practical pint of view as a decoration at home and selling for that use. I love tiny lines and small balls at their ends. I think that it creates very unique pattern in air and sometimes we cannot understand if this image is flat or not.

This work inspired me to create tiny embroidery for my final piece, I small wire and fantasy films, so it looks clean and fresh.
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Ronnan Bouroullec

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Matty Bovan//CSM MA Show

I like en enormous amount of layers that add volume to the silhouettes. Matty Bovan uses very complicated mixture of materials and colours, so his works look busy and messy. I like the unique atmosphere around each outfit that is conveyed by the harmony and contrast between textures. I chose these works because there are twisted lines and shapes that remind me algae, which I have research before. I think that Matty Bovan's works inspired me to experiment with knitting and continue to work with layers.

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Alberta Feretti SS13

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The Time

A part of my "starting point object, consisted out of one element from 20th century and another from our days. I am passionated by this organic shape, by its ideal proportions and old, dirty gold colour
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Hans Gieng//Lady of Justice//Switzerland//Bern 1536

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Lucas Cranach//Gerechtigkeit

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Margaret Battye, 1930s, Australian court dress

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Alix Bizet//Human hair collection

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Richard Hamilton Swingeing London 67 (f) 1968–9

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Thomas Rowlandson//The Judge

I choose this artwork because it illustrates the concept of the current judgement and I am talking not about the actual court and judges, where nowadays, in some countries (Russia, for example), a judge looks like in this work, not only by appearance but more likely  by its inner world, since that they are working for government na don't care about rights, rules and constitution. However, in everyday life, people judge each other without knowing of the context, thus "public court" looks definitely like that. 

In terms of the formal elements, I am excited by the quality of drawing, its shades and highlighting. It is made in natural ochre colours with small hatching. Sometimes, I am using similar way of drawing fir the fashion illustration or observational drawings.

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The Lord Chancellor

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LUCAS CRANACH THE ELDER//Salome with the head of John the Baptist, 1526-1530

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High Court Judges

One of the main inspirations for this project consist of the mantelet, wearing by the judges, I really like the silhouettes and how it's going down, creating wrinkles and nice curvy shape around the body. so, for my project I decided to combine this shape with other elements and create my own mantle, wearing on top of other garments. Also, I like two straight lines in the middle of the dress and I think it may work well if to transfer them on top.

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Themis//toga

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the museum object

Objects that we got in a museum, that is anlottery advertisements by 1810. One thing that I can tell about them is that there is a old look typography with curvy sensitive lines that I could use in designs
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the lottery ticket or the sunshine of hope

These works are examples of caricature of lottery. I have noticed very strong composition made of different clothes coming down from the shelves, as well as, a brilliant outfit of the woman in the centre of the room. I got inspired by her hair style that reminds me something fluffy and big. The second drawings very busy, there are a lot of people and creatures doing something. Whereas, I like the curtains on top of the whole scene. These works gave us an idea to show the real side of the lottery that its a trick, not fair game.

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lottery advertisement 1807

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lottery ticket

I have found this old letter tickets that are printed by red ink on yellow paper. all lines are very organic, there are not any straight geometric lines, only shapes made of smooth strips. I think that there is beautiful patter, underneath the text

  • warm tone&colours
  • smooth shapes
  • organic lines
  • very busy composition
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the man from 1810's

This work illustrates the middle-class man staying and waiting for something. I like the volume of his pants that has a very clever shape together with interesting fold,  the same as on the ha, located in his arm. I would like to re-create this volume into my garment, I think that it could work well on shoulders instead of the legs. Another element that took my attention is the coat that has a lot of cut outs and strips. As a response to them I created a series of designs, considered shapes analysed before. In general, I can say that I am excited by the outfit of his man and I will commute to explore the environment around.

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“Judith” (c. 1678) (detail) by Eglon Hendrik van der Neer

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Caroline Bonaparte and her Eldest Daughter Laetitia Joséphine. Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun; 1807; oil on canvas; 217×143 cm. Versailles, Musée National des Châteaux de Versailles et de Trianon

Another painting representing family is a public dream. I like bright and light atmosphere in a room. faces of people are highlighted, creating al illusion of lights coming out of them. I particularly interested in a dress of a women that are full of different lines, embroidery and textiles. However, I am inspired the most by two pieces if velvet coming down from the sides of her body, I think that it looks great, makes the body looks thinner and taller. Another details that make me want to rethink this is a sleeve that are just wonderful. it has very tiny ending on the top, with right geometric volume in the shoulder and of course with golf embroidery

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George (left) with his mother Queen Charlotte and younger brother Frederick, painted by Allan Ramsay in 1764

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George IV Coronation portrait by Sir Thomas Lawrence, 1821

This artwork plays a role of the main inspiration for the wealthy side of my garment. I have been influenced by these wide shoulders and very big breast. I like layers of expensive fabrics with jewelry and strong design decisions, as a long coral for example. I can't imagine how heavy should be this era,ent, considering the fact of using real faux and velvet in combination with gold embroidery and jewellery. I am decently excited by this royal outfit, by its volume and structure. it seems to be quite simple in terms of patterns although its incredibly difficult to work with this materials and its wide.

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poor people

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modern lottery

I decided to research the modern lottery just to compare what has been changed. I found this tv show, power balls and started to highlight some elements, thus a create a collage. I'm using cranberries as a representation of the power balls. In addition I look at presenter of the show, at what their are wearing, styling and etc. Based on this information I could make some sketches, inspired by the screenshots of this tv show.

I am very excited by the balls and the structure, which they use to keep balls together. I think that it could be a good inspiration for the installation, where instead balls I could put something else, or to combine the machine with garment.
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Arnhem Mode Biennale 2011

Before I started to work on our installation I decided to research all possible versions and I found this work that I consider as a very clever way of presentation. I am inspired by the fact of garment being  inside of the big window that still allow to see all  details but avoid the touch and wearables of it. I definitely what to explore this way working but we already discuss our idea, which I think is quite similar but there all be an enough space between screens and garments that make us feel differently to this exhibition. However, for the future collaboration of graphics and fashion we could do this window as a poster with garments inside and text outside.

 

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Tim Walker//SELF-PORTRAIT

It is one of my favourite self-portraits because of its atmosphere and composition on the picture. Walker is seating on the bad around cakes and it looks like he defiantly doesn't know about shooting although he has noticed the photographer, thus we got an emotion of the astonishment and thoughts like: ” what are you doing here?”. I am excited by his strips pyjamas and hot water bottle, since that it adds more relaxed and comfortable mood to the pictures and explains the awkward disturbance of the Walker’s world by the photographer. I think that this work is very ironic and sarcastic, in some ways.

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Andy Warhol//SELF-PORTRAIT

I like the contrast between black background and highlighted by red colour face. There is quite unusual geometry of hair lines on the top that makes a calm gradient from red to black shades. I found it very unique, in terms of the composition, to place the head on the bottom, without the neck and make an accent on the hair.  I am excited by the view of the Warhol. He is gazing at one point, I could understand his mood and then realised, there is a blank emotion. His face reminds me  how people usually seat, while taking photo for passports. I would try to recreate this technique of colour gradient around the main object that makes an illusion of it to come out of somewhere.

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Cindy Sherman//SELF-PORTRAIT

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Rebeca Horn

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This Place// From the bottom

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Regent's Canal//Primary Research

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Algae

During my walk along the canal, I was gazing at water and trying to highlight something particular on its surface, as well as under it.

I saw beautiful algae of different types: the first one are more similar to the normal seaweed or even some kind of flowers. I like its natural lines, conveying by twirl forms of each part of this plant. I tried to create these shapes, using different fabrics and materials. I think that the knit and tape samples work better than others, so I will create some more to use them on my final piece. An another type of algae looks very weird, as if someone forgot threads in a water and they got musty. I have noticed two thing from the research of this plan. Firstly, I definitely like how it looks, tiny and confused lines, very similar to the spider's web or someone's long hair, I have tried to re-create this composition using latex and it works good, I got a bit thicker lines than I wished too but still I will use it as a base for my top. Also, I created some samples on the knitting machine, experimenting with the number of loops and the tension, I have achieved the wanted design, so that my pieces have a lot of threads at ends, as well as somewhere between loops. I will use them as textiles for my final piece, on top of the garment, as if it were the real algae on my garment. The second thing that I highlighted abut this type of algae is the deep meaning that I can show by the plant. Algae grasps the whole surface of the water, it swallow up everything on the surface and under water, it is some kind of water parasite, making everything dirty and sometimes even disgusting. I have found something similar to people. We also swallow up the whole world and in the each place, where we have ever been, we destroyed.
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Algae attack//My response to the texture

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Lorenzo Nanni//Silk Botany 1&2

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Marina Sawa//Algaerium

This incredible artwork explains the colour creation through the chain that's based on the biology and organic faculty of the algae and light to come up with the chain reaction.

Through the photosynthesis this machine got different shades of green, yellow, red and purple. It shows how colours can be mixed, which shade made of another. The composition of the whole machine is very unique, it's very clear. It has a big glass Val on top with small, straight tubes coming out, then we can see the interlacement of cables with green(or other colours in a process) water inside that will end up in glass circle. I really like how this cables connected and that together they create very natural twisted form. This work allows me to add a bit of purple and pink in my work because that colours are produced by the algae. As well I am excited of the collaboration of art and science and one day, I would be very happy to create this collaboration by myself.
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Hanne Friis // Burden, 2014-16 // and // The Juice from the trees, 2015-16

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Algae drawings in an English encyclopaedia//Real samples

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response

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Matty Bovan//CSM MA Show

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Alberta Feretti SS13

This garments is made in blues and greens colours that allow me to see a connection with seaweeds. Using of transparent mesh fabrics with green shades make an illusion of dress to be stitched with a body. I am excited by the textile of this garment. There is a tiny embroidery work made in different techniques and materials for top and the bottom of the garment. I used this work as an inspiration to add a little bit of embroidery  to my final piece.

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Embroidery

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Latex piece

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Warp Project

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Hans Gieng//Lady of Justice//Switzerland//Bern 1536

The iconic justice lady in turquoise robes and gold armours. In this sculpture, I have noticed puffy sleeves. I like its layers created by draped fabrics. I think that these two big draping elements on each arm symbolise the strength, as if it was muscles. I am excited by the contrast of lightness, shown in some materials and woman body lines with a power and men-like strength, also there is a contrasting collaboration of very light fabrics with heavy gold metal parts on a body. 

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sleeve

As a response to the Bern Lady of Justice, I have created a sleeve, using a piece of an organza. I was trying to re-create the volume and wrinkles of fabrics as in the sculpture. Also I have thought about other ways of using this piece, for example to wear it on the leg or foot. It works very well, giving an unique silhouettes to the body parts. However, I didn't use this piece in my final outcome, since that it became less relevant to other shapes and started to make distraction of the whole piece.
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Lucas Cranach//Gerechtigkeit

This painting has became something as a muse for my project. I am enjoying to gaze at the artwork again and again. I like the natural colours of her skin, I even can feel textures of her body. She inspired me to create a concept of the contemporary justice lady, very elegant, smooth and strong. I got inspired by her simple and tiny  jewellery, so I created some small embroidery&jewellery pieces for my final piece, made of mirror circles, painted by gold ink.

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embroidery

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Margaret Battye, 1930s, Australian court dress

In the beginning, I have paid attention to the actual face of this woman because she has very beautiful and alien be like features, I would be very happy to use her as a model for my final photoshoot. In addition, one of the most powerful elements of this picture is a judge wig. It is a traditional court uniform keeps it hard to identify judges in a real life. I am inspired by the curvy shapes, twirls on sides of the head and the overall texture of the wig that reminds me an outdoor rug.

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wig

I was trying to re-create the surface of the judge's wig, I was using a piece of a washcloth and thick threads on top, twirling them into circles around the pencil and stitching them into the underneath piece. I would use it for my garment as fabrics but because it is very time-consuming I did not do that. However, I created a small pice to hide the eyes as it's done on the sculptures.
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Alix Bizet//Human Hair Collection

Since that I thought to use wigs as a fabric for my garment, I decided to research if someone already use hair for their collections. I found out this dutch young designer, who uses REAL human hair for his garments. It looks very interesting, sometimes it is impossible to understand where is a hair of the model and where is a piece of clothes. In my opinion it is quite disgusting and I would not ever try this to wear, however, in terms of the creative way of using the range of different materials it works beautifully by its twirls, organic textures and the strength of the acts hair.

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Richard Hamilton Swingeing London 67 (f) 1968–9

If judges wear uniforms to hide their real faces from people to keep themselves and their families safe, there is an another example when people are trying to hide themselves after they got arrested, but not really for keeping them selves safe but more likely to avoid the public shame on them and their families. I like this work because it conveys an atmosphere of the rush and something criminal through the blur and translucent colours. I like the idea of comparison between judge and defendant and their behaviour. it is something as a twi sides of one coin.

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Thomas Rowlandson//The Judge

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The Lord Chancellor

There is another example of the court uniform. I am inspired by the combination of black and gold that I already seen in some previous judges robes but in this outfit it is more contrasting. Also I am exciting by very wide sleeves, which seem to be similar to the kimono. I think that I will use the geometry of this coat to re-create it into something new. In addition, there is a wig that is longer that the previous one and has a wonderful shape that I may also include in my design development. In conclusion, I also want to highlight a jabot on his neck as well as cuffs, made of a white fabric and lace that will be very interring to translate into something else, as a top for example.

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LUCAS CRANACH THE ELDER//Salome with the head of John the Baptist, 1526-1530

It is another work by Cranach depicting a young woman with the head of the man in a plate. I have noticed very beautiful sleeves, made of three separate parts and connected together with gold, embroidered strips. In addition, the young lady wears diversity of chains and necklaces that seem to be a bit heavy. I really like the head piece that is full of different details such as feathers, crystals and velvet. I thing that I got influenced by this work in a way of working with details but also to remember about volume and drawing of shapes.

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A high court judge

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Themis

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Themis//toga

After I have learn some historical information about the justice lady, I found out that it is closely connected with the Greece mythology, where she is called as Themis, thus I started to look at traditional clothes all of gods in myths. More likely to meet a toga of those time than anything else,so I research some old statutes depicting Themis or other Gods/well-known people and I started to look at togas. I think that I may use the idea of a long piece of fabric   put on a body at least as an experimentations for the further design development but as well as a way of draping for the top mantle of my final look.

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draping experimentation

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co-create project

the lottery ticket or the sunshine of hope

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lottery advertisement 1807

These lottery advertisements are cool, their trying to invite the costumers by showing them how they can change their lives. It saying what people  want to hear, to get. We have analysed this posters to understand the typography, which was mainly used at those times. I would not analyse this work in a case if my museum object was different.

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lottery ticket

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the man from 1810's V&A collection

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“Judith” (c. 1678) (detail) by Eglon Hendrik van der Neer

This part of the dress is clearly connected to the representation of the wealth. I can see beautiful white skin and a sensitive line of the neck.  I am inspired by the silver colour that looks fantastic in this body, also I like that enormous embroidery piece made of crystals. Together it looks very strong and stylish. I can imagine the hardness of embroidery and stitching of small details. I am inspired by this piece and as a consequence, I decided to use silver silk for my project and may be to ad some embroidery, relevant to my design.

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Caroline Bonaparte and her Eldest Daughter Laetitia Joséphine. Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun; 1807; oil on canvas; 217×143 cm. Versailles, Musée National des Châteaux de Versailles et de Trianon

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George (left) with his mother Queen Charlotte and younger brother Frederick, painted by Allan Ramsay in 1764

This family painting is a representation of the biggest part of societies dreams, to be wealth, to have family that's why everyone is very calm, they have everything there is nothing else needed. I am excited by the finishing of her dress, there is a draping fabric piece, which I re-created into top to see how it's going to work in a body. Also, it is very important to not the environment around people in a painting because it can tell us even more than the actual people. I have noticed a big columns and enormous drake curtain behind it. I think that my garment will be very wonderful to shoot in posh place and in a dirty place to show contrast not only in a garment but around it too.

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George IV Coronation portrait by Sir Thomas Lawrence, 1821

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poor people

This drawing from the V&A collection attracted my attention by its greyness and coldness. I think that it is a brilliant image to represent poverty, showing not people who don't do anything but whose working a lot but still did not get enough money. I admire the way of hatching that conveys this atmosphere of guiding and tiredness, also I like the way people presented with a fabric in hands, some pieces on a floor, and simple robes worn. I mean this work is nothing surprising about, it just shows another side  the life.

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floor cleaning napkin

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floor cleaning napkin

Since that I need to shown the poverty in one side of my garment, I started to think how to make that not so literal. I mean that I'm quite bored by the holes in clothes, deconstructed fabrics and other ways of showing homelessness. So I research S lottery picture of 19th century, there was a woman with very weird hat or wig on her had, I did some responses and realised that it reminds me something else. I continued me research into poverty, and of curse I noticed that the cleaning job is very badly paid. I generated idea, that the cleaning napkin, while we squeeze it out is very similar to the wig I have researched before. Thus I found my concept of presenting poverty through textiles, inspired by dirty floor cleaning napkin.

 

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modern lottery

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Arnhem Mode Biennale 2011

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